Monday, 26 July 2010

Two days in Paris!

Whoa! What a weekend :). It had originally been a random decision, and something born of necessity. I had a weekend to kill between a course and landing up in office, and I wasn't going to get the apartment in Asker till Monday. So I figured, I'll just stay in Paris! Within a couple of days I even had a few people ready to go with me!
But as the days rolled by all that changed, pretty much everyone cancelled and I ended up boarding the plane from Nantes to Paris with no definite place to stay and a dull headache from an ill-advised sequence of events the night before. I'd also just figured out that the Tour de France was due to conclude in Paris the same weekend :|. Okay, I don't follow the sport, and had absolutely no idea, honestly!!! Needless to stay, the accommodation scenario wasn't looking promising. On the up-side, I did have one friend landing up, Morten, my host in Bergen last summer!
Once we met up, we figured a place to stay was something of a priority, cue for a stop at an internet cafe and a frantic online search for hotels/hostels. We even found one that wasn't too far away! But here's the thing, when you find something online under such circumstances, book it! We figured, we'll just have a look in person :|. By the time we got to the place 20 minutes later, the rooms were gone. But this was in Montmartre, so there wasn't any dearth of hotels and eventually we did find quite a decent one that we didn't have to pay all that much for :). Having a place to sleep makes a big difference in the general peace of mind situation, I find :D.From then onwards, there was no looking back, we decided to make the most of our location and check out Sacre Coeur first. And there onwards we made our rather aimless wandering way all the way down to the banks of the Seine right at Concorde. That is where the Tour de France imposed itself upon us. The entire area was a mess of barricades and scaffoldings and such things. We were beginning to feel it might be a good idea to see what the fuss was all about.But for the present we made our winding way along the river, eventually landing up at the bottom of the Eiffel Tower. Now I had only two things that I really wanted to do this time in Paris. Go up the Eiffel Tower, and see the Mona Lisa in the Louvre Museum. The last time I'd tried to achieve the first the gigantic queues and an extreme unwillingness to climb up stairs had done me in. (May I clarify, said unwillingness was not my own :|.) The Louvre had been passed over for Notre Dame.The queues were there, but being somewhat early in the afternoon, there weren't that many takers for the stairs, so that's the way we went! Not too long after I was getting wowed by the views, first from the first level and then from the second. The tall buildings from all around Paris (and there are some seriously gigantic specimens in that town) were beginning to look less and less like mammoth structures and more like pieces in a toy city.Here's the fun part, no one expects anyone to actually climb up stairs to the very top :). You go get tickets to a different elevator once you are at the second level. That cuts down the crowd by a lot! Took us less than an hour from when we queued up for the tickets to when we were plainly gawking at the world spread around us in all directions from some place very very high :D.Nothing impinged the horizon any longer. There was no skyline :). The Sacre Coeur on its hill had blended into the general sea of human construction that was Paris. Nothing could rear its head into the sky, not the 'sky-scrapers' of La Defense, not the tower in Montparnasse! Majesty and awe. How often these two go together! You have to be up there, on the top of the Eiffel Tower to truly see how large Paris really is.Would Delhi look as wide and all-encompassing? In this respect I think coastal cities have a disadvantage, about half the world would be blue :). Sydney and Bergen both have that problem. And it isn't quite the same watching the masses of concrete or the carpets of light, depending on the time of day or night, from a fast moving, high flying aeroplane. You need to stand still, take the time and have a good look around. Let the view sink in slowly.Yup, I was quite impressed :). Unfortunately, now that I think about it, I can't really recall the feeling from when we went up Menara Kuala Lumpur. Don't seem to remember being quite this taken :). I've gotto try the top of the Empire State Building some time!Eventually we did make our way down, and ambled over to the Arch de Triomphe. Even went across the road for a closer look. And having basically walked all the way from Sacre Coeur to Concorde, then to Hotel de Invalides and the Ecole Militaire, up and down half the Eiffel Tower and finally over to the Arch by way of Palaise de Chaillot, all in about 8 or 9 hours, we were finally beat! We took the metro back and I for one, passed out happily for a change :D.Next morning it was going to be that other item on the list, we headed unhurriedly for the Louvre and made it there before the mid morning rush. Imagine this, we didn't even have to queue for the tickets! I actually asked the lady of they were open yet :P.
The trouble with museums is time. In most cases it is actually impossible to see everything. And this here is the Louvre, so.. We figured we'd just get the map and find the Mona Lisa. But while we were winding our way through halls and corridors, slipping past tourist groups of all shapes and sizes, we ran into someone we knew!!Right, here's what you do, take all the people that visit Paris on an average summer day, then you consider how many different places they could possibly visit on that day. Then, assuming at some point of time of the day they may or may not choose to have a look in at the Louvre Museum, you thing about all the different parts of the massive sprawling structure they could be in at any given moment. What are the odds then, of two such people, with absolutely no prior agreement to the effect, (and of course, who know each other and live very very far away from Paris :P) bumping into each other next to da Vinci's Virgin of the Rocks in the Denon Wing?Assuming you've worked that one out, you can probably appreciate all our surprise when we ran into Yana, last seen in Miami at the end of our awesome Key West road trip, at the aforementioned location :). As if to underscore the extent of chance involved, we didn't manage to locate each other at all again! For our part we went on to (read, I dragged Morten to) see the Mona Lisa. Had I not known what to expect, I would have been surprised at the actual size of it :). But as it is, I spent more time trying to get a good shot of it amidst the huge throng, rather than actually looking at it closely.While there we did look in at a few other bits and pieces, but to be honest there was no hope of going through anything in any detail. I settled for some of da Vinci's other paintings on display, Venus de Milo, Michaelangelo's The Dying Slave and the coronation crown of Louise XV and everything that fell in the way. I don't think we even made it to the second floor, or the Napoleon III apartments. But by then it was well past midday, so we moved on.Another walk along the Seine, across Pont Neuf, past the Conciergerie and Notre Dame onto a somewhat short foray southwards past St. Michel and La Sorbonne and the Pantheon. Then back towards Notre Dame and Hotel De Ville. By the time we'd made our way back to the Louvre we had to stop for a bit :).I realise that I can be something of a snob when it comes to people striking poses around monuments. But after turning my nose up at roughly 50 different people trying to hold the great glass pyramid of the Louvre with the tip of thumb and fore-finger, I gave up :P. I guess it's whatever keeps your clock ticking, right? But really? What's wrong with just a nice big smile? Why do you have to push it or pull it of lift it or what have you? :)By the time we headed along the Jardine des Tuileries, we though we may have missed all the action. But, as fate would have it, at the Ferris wheel we saw a huge bunch of people and some pretty big Norwegian and British flags, and within seconds a huge roar went up as the cyclists went past us with truly astonishing speed!!! I was too surprised to snap any clear shots! But seeing how most people seemed to be staying, we found ourselves somewhat better vantage positions and waited!
It was pretty easy to spot the next few laps actually, the helicopter headed towards us for one, and then the clearing vehicles ahead as the cyclists came up from the tunnel and took that left turn towards Concorde!! Again and again we waited, wanting to see it one more time, and over and over they kept flying past! Once I got the hang of it of course, I let it rip, a couple of hundred shots, and that was just 'cos I was running out of space on my 8Gb memory card :P.
We did make our way over towards Concorde and sort of eavesdropped on the concluding ceremony via the large screen projected next to the Champs de Elysee. But the euphoria was over, and we were really glad to have felt the rush of those thundering wheels, pumping pedals. I honestly cannot believe how fast these people rode those bikes up that slope of the ramp!! You've gotto see them zoom past I guess :).
It was going to be hard to top that experience, and we settled for a leisurely walk back to the hotel. Going through the roughly 800 pics I had taken in the previous two days (incredible, even for me, yes, but you have to account for the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and the Tour de France :D) I couldn't quite believe how all of this had actually turned out :). I even got a bunch of pics of Contador, as it turned out :D.All the way back to Asker, on the metros, the flight, the bus, all I could think about was how there was really no way to have actually planned any two days like these :). Yet more proof that if you can survive it, the best trips are the most impulsive ones :).
Currently: still on a high :)
Listening to: Joshua Radin - Sundrenched world


ps: It's way too late now, and I've got to start work tomorrow morning, so I guess I'll get to those pics later :). Phew! That was a lot of photographs! :)

Thursday, 22 July 2010

Inaudible melodies

I am tired. Not hopelessly so. This isn't your average drop-dead exhaustion, or falling asleep on my feet kind of tiredness. Just the slow sneaky kind that creeps up on you and makes you sigh and want to just stop for a little bit.
My break ended with a short trip to New Haven before I headed to Nantes, which is where I am now. Happens to be in France, as old readers of this blog might recall, because I've been here before :). But before I get too far ahead of myself, New Haven. The trip had a sense of symmetry I suppose. When I travelled to the US the first time, it had been my first destination, and now when I left, it was my last. And all of this in less than twelve months. The boat's on its way out of the Gulf and who knows when I'll be heading back. Soon, let's hope.

Meeting up with old friends after a long time can get you to thinking. I think it is the snapshot-effect thing. You see them after a long time and the changes brought on by the years are more apparent, and it goes both ways. There are always changes. Which is where I start wondering.
Dinners and walks. One awesome barbecue night! A run, a proper run, up and down quiet roads on a bright Saturday morning, a first in about a year! :) Roaring conversations, quiet chats... It's comforting to know that in the midst of all these comings and goings some places will remain familiar, some faces dear.
Flying through Philly was all drama though! Weather and small airports, I was asking for some trouble I guess, but in the end it all worked out, so that was good. It just left me very very sleep deprived and exhausted when I did finally reach Nantes.
In the two years since my last visit, it would appear people in general have gotten friendlier :). Or maybe it's just the difference between the far-flung outskirts we were staying in last time, and the middle of down town, which is where we are staying this time. Good choice, definitely. I've never seen such a dense distribution of restaurants, bars, pubs, creperies, kebab shops and a zillion other forms of food sellers anywhere else!But I find myself somewhat disinclined from being touristy right now. A few leisurely walks around the castle and the cathedral were all we bothered with. I guess the rather wild guided tour of the rum bars in town rather late into the night in the middle of the week would count as quite interesting :).I've been slacking off with the photos. I know this, but I'm just too... I don't know. I'm sure I'll get to them at some point, it's not like they're running away. I'm actually looking forward to sort of getting to Asker and vegetating for a little bit. Which is ironic, 'cos when I think about it, there's not much else that I've done this break but vegetate :). I know what it is. It's all this arriving and leaving. Mostly the leaving. I know this of course, but true to form I will deftly tuck it under a bunch of other stuff in a small acute angled corner of my head. Like one of these French apartment buildings, you know what I'm talking about? The ones that are like a wedge of cheese. Cooped up between two streets and ending up with one wall that's shrunken down to an edge. Imagine living in a room at that end. Three walls, all acute corners, no right angles, everything altogether too sharp.
Currently: brooding in this beautiful summer weather
Listening to: Marketa Irglova - The hill

Tuesday, 13 July 2010

House full of time

It's such a throw-back on the majority of my school vacations to my cousin's. Seems like I got here just yesterday, and now it's time to leave. It's been a good trip. Quiet, mostly. Fireflies, some splattered on a wind-shield, a dying stain of phosphorescent light. Sudden thunderstorms and torrents of mad angry rain.
Turns out this is the first time I've lived in a house with cats. No one in my family has cats. We are dog people. But my cousin's adviser has cats. And he's house-sitting for them, so. I don't so much hate them, as treat them with mild suspicion :). I think the thing I don't like about cats is that they don't really seem to care so much for people. Just places.
Watched the last semi-final and then the final of the World Cup. Was extremely gratifying to see Germany reduced to nothing. Was extremely frustrating to see Netherlands playing like a mob of angry thugs, and hence very very gratifying to see them reduced to tears. Although, what was with the flurry of cards in the last 10 minutes?!! Not one appeared to be justified. OK, so the red card was probably just amends for the one not given for that god-awful kick to the chest earlier on, still. Ugly.In the mean time there were also the cars. The weekend street show down town, and then the visit to the vintage car museum a short way away, set up like a Texaco gas station from half a century ago!A lot of nothing. Console gaming. Improvised 'drive-in' movie in a Walmart parking lot while waiting for the rain to stop. Cooking/ grilling/ frying zuccini :). Old music. New music. Dave Matthews Band, Regina Spektor, The Weepies. Catching up. Filling in the gaps in the phone-call and email and chat variety of keeping in touch. A couple of years' worth in a week? Well, it's something.
Currently: hoping for better weather for the flights!
Listening to: Jonsi and Guitar

Thursday, 8 July 2010

A mid-air slalom through thunder!

You'd think that after close to 50 crew changes by one mode of transport or another, excitement wouldn't be that easy to come by. Or maybe I'm all wrong and 5 years is really nothing in the greater scheme of things. Be that as it may, I haven't had this much excitement in one crew change in a while. (Angola doesn't count, for several mostly unfortunate reasons.)
There was the weather, even though Alex had passed, the weather gods kept throwing thunderstorm after thunderstorm right at us! This of course had us all on our toes for the last week or so, but it all came to a head when on the morning of crew change day the skies dawned gloomy and overcast and the first chopper kept getting delayed further and further into the day.
I was supposed to be on the second flight, and had that remained the case, I would have missed my flights out of New Orleans. As it turned out, I managed to get myself bumped up to the first chopper out, and what followed has to be the most exciting chopper ride I've had yet! For all the wrong reasons. Let's just say that, thrilling as it was, I would rather not go flying again under low lying thunder clouds or weaving in and out of the ominous looking columns of grey where the clouds descended to sea level in torrents of heavy rain!
And that wasn't all! Everything worked out fine till I arrived at Chicago O'Hare, and there the weather caught up with me again! Heavy rain shut down the airport for a little while and the ensuing traffic jam leading up to the runway meant that I ended up spending well over two hours in the little Embraer prop instead of 45 minutes.
But, as they say, all's well that ends well. I made it to my cousin in the impossibly flat and rather warm Bowling Green, OH in the middle of the night, and very close to the end of my ability to stay awake a minute longer :).

Currently: on holiday!!
Listening to: Glen Hansard & Marketa Irglova - Falling slowly

Saturday, 3 July 2010

Hopes, scattered like dry leaves...

...blown away by the wind.

Well, what can I say? Bummed doesn't even get to the ball park. Would it have felt any better if it had been less of a drubbing? I could say yes, but that would be a lie. Yes, they had chances, but if you want to win the thing, you've gotto score haven't you?! And to score you have to finish at the end of the runs. One team did and the other didn't. And now I'm left to wait another four years before I can dream again. I will though. That's just how it is.

The irony of it is that usually once Argentina got knocked out, there'd be Brazil still playing, and I'd cheer them. But who now? Spain? Not the Dutch or the Germans :|.
--
I'm a creature of habit mostly. So I rather surprised myself this trip. But like they say, the more things change the more they stay the same. Old habits give way to new. I guess in some ways change is a habit too.

5 is an awkward number. Sometimes too little, sometimes too much. Years, months.

Not a long way to go now.

Currently: sad
Listening to: Craig Armstrong - After the storm