Wednesday, 26 December 2007

The Great Kiwi Road Trip - Day I

Invercargill --> Queenstown
187.0 km
18th December '07

I managed to wake up at the highly respectable time of 8 on Tuesday morning, thanks largely to a call from the car rental, reminding me that I had a pick-up arranged for later in the day. (Was actually a really good thing, I was still a wee bit short of finding my bearings.)Managed to wake John up and headed out for breakfast. The food obviously cleared things up a little more, since it the occurred to us that accommodation in Invercargill wouldn't do a whole lot of good to us when we landed up in Queenstown later that evening!! More frantic calling, this time to the backpackers, got us the desired extra night's stay, and again, at cheaper rates than we'd booked earlier!That done, we headed out to see the few sights that this sleepy town offered. It almost felt like home though, given the number of familiar people we kept running into at every corner :|. (The Western Trident had invaded Invercargill for a couple of days :P.) What was not so funny was the number of people who kept enquiring about how my head felt :|. Just for the record, my head was feeling fine! I don' tdo hangovers, much to the envy of some people I know :D.
We were supposed to pick up the car at 1400, but by midday we'd pretty much exhausted all avenues of sight-seeing in Invercargill. Including chasing down Burt Munro's land speed record holding (2-wheelers) 'world's fastest Indian' bike at a tiny display at the back of a hardware store!! An absolute shame I tell you, the bike had actually been on display at the Southland Museum in the city until recently. But when we'd landed up there the previous day we were told that the exhibit had been removed X-(.Anyway, we caught the rental lady on her lunch break, but before too long managed to get the key to our eventually much loved, almost brand spanking new Toyota Corolla 1.8l hatch! And it came with the manual in the glove box :P. I think it might be pertinent here to note that this was only the second automatic (or any car outside India for that matter) I'd ever gotten behind the wheels of. The first time had been mid '05 in KL when I'd failed the company driving test :|. The reason, according to my Aussie evaluator, I kept braking too late!! In my defence, by Mumbai and Kolkata standards I was already being overcautious /:).While John pored over said manual, we started off, only to be immediately cut off by a 4WD that seemed in a massive hurry X-(. My reflexes led to a loud honking that seemed to surprise John :|. But hey, that was the last time I used that piece of equipment for the rest of the trip!
The drive was brilliant to say the least! I'd been warned that we'd come across less humans and more sheep, and I agree. The rolling fields, the sometimes distant, sometimes not quite so distant, often snow-capped mountains, sudden rushing streams made it really difficult from a constant high :). We made a stop at the tiny village of Lumsden to grab some lunch, only to find everything but the convenience store shut :|. Only when we'd set off again did we find not one, but three restaurants, barely a mile away :-<. The absolute highlight of the drive was arriving at the shores of Lake Wakatipu. A spectacular deep blue in the bright sunshine, and stretching from Kingston to Queenstown and beyond. To make things even better, the highway wound its way around the eastern shores of the lake and along the curves of the twisting mountainside.We stopped often and greeted fellow travellers (there seemed to be more people on the road actually, only, you never saw any of them on the road :D) who were similarly awed by the scenery. We also seemed to find more cemeteries along the road than towns or villages, something that prompted John to conclude that there were more dead people in New Zealand than alive :|.

Eventually we found ourselves entering the outskirts of what seemed to be a very large sprawling town. Once there, and with no other means of locating the YHA we were staying at, we had to rely on the progressively zoomed in screen grabs from Google Earth I'd printed out just before we left the boat! I must say the street names, and even the hostel location were spot on! (For which we shall be eternally grateful to GE :D.)Once we'd settled into our dorm (that looked a little worse for wear, but had a spectacular view of the lake) we managed to locate the final third of our road-tripping trio, none other than my now semi-ex-house mate in Perth, Anu. And more importantly, the Lonely Planet guide to New Zealand that she owned :P. The first thing we did was to book ourselves on a paragliding and a jet boating trip for the next day. Then we headed out for some food ad a look around. I think I haven't mentioned the fact that since it's summer here, daylight hours pretty much range from 5 am to 10 pm. So while we weren't ever short of daylight, that only meant that half the things were shut even with everything bright and sunny :-<. Queenstown is not really one of those places you go to look at buildings and things. You go there to do stuff. And true to the title of 'adventure capital of the world', there is absolutely no dearth of things to do. And while some of the things are quite nice and tame, there are others that could seriously test your limits. Satisfied that the next day would bring enough by way of more exciting stuff, we were content to head off along the lake front for a nice view of the sunset. I have to say, I hadn't expected lakes to have waves this huge. But then again, I don't recall having been around any lakes this size before. I believe most people have survived art class as kids, and part of that survival was the ability to render a sunset (or rise) with the sun poised exactly in between two hills with some form of water in the foreground, a few trees here and there, and maybe a few ticks birds in the sky. If that is true, then this sunset was picture-perfect :).
(was) Feeling: surrounded by sunshine :)
Listening to: Vertical Horizon - All of you

Part - !!! (Plan B)

With all that has happened these last few days, you would think crew change would pretty much be a blur by now? Think again! I have never seen a more complicated set of plans drawn up for one single crew change :|. But what with the demonic weather conditions and the absolute necessity of our crew being off for Christmas, shore support (thankfully!) went into complete overdrive! Over the weekend we were informed that crew change would be a part ferry, part helo affair!

So at the crack of dawn on Monday we were ready with the small boats to accomplish some ten trips to transfer the bulk of the crews between the Trident and the Foveaux Express. The thick haze that hung all about us boded ill, but the sea was as calm as I'd seen in weeks. Then I actually saw the ferry. I wasn't expecting anything very big, but this was tiny!!! It didn't even look like it could fit in 40 odd people on board, and luggage :(. And then suddenly I recognised it!! This was the same boat I'd seen from the Trident, getting battered by the quite moderate seas on its way into Bluff, while we had been waiting to go in for our port call some 3 weeks earlier :-S.

Thankfully, the transfers all went well. (That is to say, everyone got to where they needed to be and no one, or their bags, got dipped in the water.) I was on the crew for the first few trips, and I can tell you, it wasn't fun turning away from the ferry every time, when I could have simply hopped across :-<. Eventually managed to get off on the last trip, and then it was straight for Bluff! By then it had gotten seriously rough and the rain had picked up from a light drizzle to a heavy downpour. Unfortunately, I'd packed my jacket in, not realising that we weren't getting our bags back till we got to port!! So I ended up spending the almost hour long trip freezing my ass off :|. It was a fun trip though, bumpy enough to throw a few people off their seats, but not enough to actually make anyone throw up :D. The familiar sight of Dog Island and its lighthouse brought relieved cheers from most, and in what seemed like absolutely no time, we were off at Bluff, and on a bus to Invercargill!It was only then that it occurred to me that we now had an extra two days with no car and possibly no accommodation in New Zealand!!! Frantic calls to the car rental ensured we had the car a day earlier (and rather inexplicably, a lot cheaper!) and the bosses ensured we had rooms in one of the rather nicer hotels in town. That sorted, the better part of the crew proceeded to relieve the pent up tension by collectively swarming every watering hole in sight.I don't clearly recall a whole lot except that we started at about 11 am and by the time I called it a night around midnight I'd realised two things, one, when in Kiwi-land go with Speight's Old Dark. And two, Invercargill has more pubs and bars that cafes and restaurants, and we'd probably been to almost everyone of the former :P.

(was) Feeling: pretty good
Listening to: Nirvana - The man who sold the world

Saturday, 15 December 2007

Part - !!! (Anatomy of a Plan)

Drama, drama, drama :-<. First they split crew-change over two days, with a whole bunch of us (including me X-(() leaving on the second!! Then they let it slip with us (yes, coincidentally, a disproportionately large majority of the 'us' that were leaving on the second day :|) still breaking our collective back on back-deck round two :|. Spirits weren't running very high I can tell you, but tempers definitely were.... Well, nothing happened but then Buoyweather came to the rescue anyway. It turns out the weather's supposed to decide that things like helicopters will not be allowed to land on things like lowly seismic boats, and shall be swatted out of the sky, and so on and so forth, on Tuesday and Wednesday, i.e. the days of the planned crew-x! How kind of it/them.In the meantime, the weather's been nice enough to even allow us sunrises!! (As may be obvious from the above image, it wasn't quite as clearly visible as one might have hoped for, but there were significant portions of the sky that turned blue instead of a dingy grey. And there were even some other colours!!!) So, having wrapped up work a second time on the back-deck yesterday, when I landed up on shift at midnight today, a surprise awaited me. Crew change on Monday. Monday!!! Two full days before schedule!!!

Obviously I took it for a joke in very bad taste. Over the course of the next 7-8 hours, however, it became evident that was in fact, not the case!! (Okay, if you could possibly imagine the extent of the nastiness of the practical jokes, and the length and detail to which they are formulated on board a seismic boat, you wouldn't believe fairytale stories like this either, despite whatever proof being thrown in your face however straight the (non, in this case)-perpetrators' faces may be /:).) However, all is not cut and dried. There is the obvious possibility of the weather picking up too early, or of course, the fog coming in. In which case, there's boat transfers to a ferry on Tuesday, and I have to be out driving the standby boat for half the time at least :-S. I'm actually sometimes quite surprised that Murphy wasn't in fact in the seismic business.

But in any case, one must prepare for the earliest exit possible :|. For the last few sign-offs, we've had to actually pack our bags, and have them weighed for the chopper manifests! Now this is something I completely detest. I hate packing when I know I'll have to unpack again :|. Thus far, I'd even gotten away with it, pleading, whinging, lying (yes, I'm not proud of myself) left right and centre. But. There is always a time and a place when one must reconsider taking the chance of pissing off the Medic. (She's the one who weighs the bags, and also helps prepare the manifests, you do not want to risk landing up on the eighth chopper off the boat on a dicey crew-change day :-&.)

What the hell, I figured it might even be a good opportunity. I was very satisfied with the result actually. Stepped into my cabin, stepped back out with my bags all packed - just under seven minutes \:D/. With a ten minute deadline, that would still leave me a full three minutes to change and the dash up to the helideck! Comfortable :), and this was just my first attempt. Under more compelling circumstances, I'm sure I could shave off another couple of minutes at least!

It is a genuine miracle, I tell you, how nothing stupid happens on these last few days before tense crew-changes :-<.

Currently: on edge, already!!
Listening to: Marilyn Manson - Rock is dead

Wednesday, 12 December 2007

Devil's alternative

For quite a few days now we've been enveloped in dense fog for the better part of the day, and night. It's only when the wind dies down that the fog moves in. When the wind rises, it blows the fog away, but also drives up the swell into monstrously choppy seas :-<. With the scheduled crew-change exactly a week away, this has put a seriously large spanner in the works :-S. The fog often reduces visibility to less than 50m, eliminating the chance of helicopter landings, and choppy seas do pretty much the same :|.

Other than that, the fog's really cool! No really! I have never seen anything move so fast, and from all directions! One minute you are looking out to the horizon, the next, you see it fade, and the next thing you know, you cant see the front of the boat from the back!! But by far the coolest thing was the fog in the night! This one time it seemed particularly close, you could actually see wisps of it leak into the light :D.

Ah yes, the 10 days turned into eleven, and the promised break from the back-deck arrived. I was prepared for it to be short, but not this short. After barely one day away, we're now back at it. Only now, the freezing winds have given way to some extent to freezing rain. And the aforementioned fog.
--

I'm sure this is a familiar experience, you call up someone, friends, family. It so happens that they are not alone, in fact, there's a whole bunch of people around, and you know all of them! There's a sort of a background to the conversation, and you catch snatches of familiar voices, names... I miss being part of that background :-<.

Feeling: far-away
Listening to: Red Hot Chili Peppers - Minor thing

Saturday, 8 December 2007

Spar

Finally a little bit of time :). Ten straight days on the back-deck make for a miserable life to be honest. Add to that the prevailing weather conditions, and it is not surprising that I have felt genuinely depressed at times over these last few days. But, the end is in sight, and while we might be back out in the deep freeze before too long, the respite, however short, is more than welcome.I took the break to put up the rest of my Bluff pics on the photoblog. (After like ages I know! But I was dying here in the mean time.. so :|.) Going through the photographs put me in a good mood, as is usual :). But try as I may, even I have to admit that nothing beats the real thing. Even when you may have been there, done that. 'Cos the memory fades, and the joy is but a fast attenuating impulse that everything around is trying so hard to snuff out as quickly as possible :-<.

Feeling: deflated
Listening to: Joshua Radin - These photographs